Winter's Airport
For pilots in the Northeast, one of the most eagerly anticipated events each year is the freezing of Alton Bay, a narrow, southerly oriented limb off the main body of New Hampshire's expansive Lake Winnipesaukee. When bay ice consistently thickens to over 12 inches, a team of dedicated volunteers collaborates with the New Hampshire Department of Transportation to open the Alton Bay Ice Runway. Over the years, its coveted status as the only FAA-authorized ice runway in the continental United States has endeared it to aviators seeking novelty. For pilots who fly wheeled aircraft and whose insurance companies do not permit "off airport" operations, the plowed 100 foot wide by 2600-3000 foot long Alton Bay Ice Runway gives a taste of backcountry experience at an FAA-recognized airport.
Despite its acclaim, the ephemeral airport leads a finicky existence. In 2023 and 2024, the ice never thickened sufficiently for it to open at all. Thaws, rain, snow, and strong crosswinds can temporarily close the airport. Warm spells can mean doom for this frozen Brigadoon. Additionally, cooperative wind is critical because all take-offs and landings must be made to the north (runway 19 is permanently closed); Alton Bay is one way in and out. Finally, no matter its condition, the FAA stipulates that ice runway operations must cease by March 31 each year.
An early winter cold snap in 2025 led to Alton Bay opening unusually early: January 24. But getting there from Rochester, NY is never a simple task and not only requires the runway to be open with favorable conditions, but the weather between here and there must be amenable to a six hour round trip to get there and back again. In particular, the capricious lake effect weather machine dominating atmospheric conditions on the southern Lake Ontario shore must shut down enough for anyone to consider making the flight. In ten years, I have only managed six trips to Alton Bay (including 2025).
When forecasts looked promising for Saturday, January 25 -- the second day the runway was open for 2025 -- I rallied Williamson Flying Club members to go. Six answered the call. Considering that the runway had not materialized since 2022, pent up demand was understandably high. I urged all participants to be airborne by 7:00 am if we were to have any chance of securing limited airplane parking spots on the ice of Alton Bay. I assured anyone grumpy about the early departure that they would thank me later.
Fireball
Date | Aircraft | Route of Flight | Time (hrs) | Total (hrs) |
25 Jan 2024 | N21481 | SDC (Sodus, NY) - B18 (Alton Bay, NH) - LCI (Laconia, NH) - SDC | 5.8 | 2952.5 |
We launched under darkened skies with the eastern horizon warmed by the slightest crimson glow. As Warrior 481 lifted us to a cruise altitude of 7,500 feet, the first hint of the sunrise came in the form of a massive fireball turned vermillion by miles of low haze between us and the horizon.
Though we climbed above the low cloud layer first, the sun soon followed and shed its merlot aspect in favor of something more balanced across the visual spectrum.
We skimmed low over the clouds at 7,500 feet on a direct course between the Williamson Sodus Airport and Alton Bay.
Accompanying me aboard Warrior 481 were Mark G and Joe F. Mark has joined me on a number of recent aviation adventures from Tuskegee to Old Rhinebeck to aerial forays over New York City and Boston. Joe is a recently certificated Private Pilot who last flew with me in 2023 when we visited a pancake breakfast at the National Warplane Museum in Geneseo, NY. Joe experienced his first grass landing that day and was about to get his first ice landing. Joe's interest in Alton Bay goes back to childhood. He grew up near Lake Winnipesaukee, had watched airplanes landing on the ice as a kid, and never dreamed that he would someday arrive in one. His parents would be waiting for us when we arrived.
Photo by Ed. |
A few miles ahead of us were Ed C and Randal S. Randal is another recently certificated Private Pilot who flew with me in 2024 for an after work ice cream run to Dansville. He also joined us on our most recent flight to Old Rhinebeck.
Behind Warrior 481 were Scott L and Gilead B in Eight Five X-Ray. Scott was with me the day we landed at Alton Bay for the 2019 winter carnival and became one of the 150 record-breaking airplanes to touch down on the ice that day. Today would be his first landing on the ice as pilot in command. Gilead achieved his first landing at Alton Bay when we went in 2022.
I was anxious about availability of parking on the ice and punished myself by remotely monitoring the veritable swarm of uplinked aircraft traffic data in the pattern at Alton Bay. It was a foolhardy obsession because I had no idea of how many aircraft were already parked on the ice. Watching new arrivals from a distance fed my anxiety, but told me nothing of value.
At cruise, we were separated from the mountainous surface by an ethereal scrim of vapor.
Not Cool, Man
After transitioning across multiple sectors of Boston Center's vast airspace, the home stretch found us on with Boston Approach under a crisp, blue New Hampshire sky. With as much as 25 knots of tailwind, we made the flight from Sodus to Alton Bay in only two hours.
Lake Winnisquam with Lake Winnipesaukee in the distance. |
I was anxious about availability of parking on the ice and punished myself by remotely monitoring the veritable swarm of uplinked aircraft traffic data in the pattern at Alton Bay. It was a foolhardy obsession because I had no idea of how many aircraft were already parked on the ice. Watching new arrivals from a distance fed my anxiety, but told me nothing of value.
A few miles out we navigated terrain on the west side of Lake Winnipesaukee. Joe called out some of the peaks below and reminisced about his childhood exploration of them.
We slipped into the left downwind for runway 1 at Alton Bay and, once we could see the parking area, sighed in relief. It was only half full of parked aircraft.
Rolling out on final approach, I was surprised to see another airplane stopped right at the runway threshold. Usually, Alton Bay volunteers hold departure traffic significantly farther back from the threshold when other aircraft are about to land. As a result, I normally aim my touchdown point for the threshold to ensure plenty of runway length to coast to a stop on the slick surface.
"Should that guy be so close to the threshold?" Joe asked. I confirmed that it was an odd place for them to be. Stopped with their back to us, the pilot of the other airplane would be incapable of seeing us. This is why ice runway prime movers Jason Leavitt and Paul LaRochelle regulate take-offs on busy weekend flying days. I adjusted my trajectory to land slightly long so as not to buzz the other airplane.
Then I saw the high wing airplane creep forward. "Is he moving?!" I asked rhetorically in utter disbelief. Sure enough, as we were on short final, the other airplane decided to take off. My options were to hope he got off the ice before we landed or to initiate a go-around. With his take off imminent, I was concerned that a go-around might create a midair collision risk. Managing that would require significantly sidestepping the runway at a low altitude while aborting the landing.
As we sank lower and the other airplane gained airspeed, I debated these two options silently. Once the other airplane broke "ground", I committed to landing. Everything worked out fine, but it was much closer than it should have been. Mark captured the whole thing on video. (See below, judge for yourself.) I was particularly annoyed that the other pilot was probably completely oblivious to our presence.
My hypothesis is that Paul et al. released the other plane to the runway while I was still on base and there was still plenty of time for them to take off. Instead of launching immediately as expected, the pilot dawdled at the threshold before deciding to take off. Ultimately it was all fine, but not the kind of adventure I was looking for that morning. At the time, I was unaware that another unfortunate surprise was in store for us later in the day.
Back on the Ice
In spite of the distraction, I greased the landing on the ice. It was my fifth landing at Alton Bay in ten years and my sixth visit.
Paul and Jason marshaled us to parking. Though Jason moved on once we were stopped, Paul lingered to help me push the Warrior into a parking spot and I was able to personally thank him for all of his efforts to keep the ice runway going for so many years.
Since 2019, pilots in command have been presented with poker chips -- what the Alton Bay crew fittingly call "ice chips" -- commemorating landing at Alton Bay. I received my 2025 chip from Paul before he returned to managing arrivals.
We had arrived!
The parking situation at Alton Bay was very fluid. Though we arrived shortly after 9:00 am, the Super Cub parked next to us was already firing up to leave. This constant turn over of traffic allowed Alton Bay to set a new record that day: 164 airplanes. Impressive considering that there is only parking for about 30 at one time. One pilot flew all the way from San Antonio just to land on the ice.
Another First Time Ice Landing
We looked up in time to see Scott and Gilead lined up for Scott's first ice landing. Eight Five X-Ray glided directly over our heads as I videoed the arrival, panning past the morning sun to catch some JJ Abrams-esque lens flare. Scott's landing looked good from where I was standing (video below).
Scott taxies in after his first landing at Alton Bay. |
Scott was directed to the other side of the parking area from us, just one airplane away from where Ed was already parked.
Ice Runway Pilots Assemble!
(Cue the Avengers music...)
Ed first visited Alton Bay with me in 2018, then turned the tables by flying me and Paula there in his Archer II in 2021. But this was his Archer's first appearance there since she donned her beautiful new wardrobe. Looking good on the ice!
Photo by Joe's mom. |
We gathered to congratulate Scott on his first ice landing and to collectively pat ourselves on the back for getting there early enough to find parking. See? I told them that they would thank me later for the early start. Joe brought his parents over to meet the Williamson Flying Club crew and his mom was kind enough to capture the obligatory photo of everyone squinting into the sun.
The above video captures our approach and landing, including the other aircraft taking off while we were on short final. It also commemorates Scott's first landing on the ice.
Excellent Water
When landing on a frozen lake, one becomes very aware of the non-standard surface supporting all of those airplanes. Morphology varies from year to year, but the 2025 surface was largely black ice with a multitude of air bubbles trapped within that resembled an infinite universe of stars. Peering into it was like staring down eternity. Seeing me take this picture, Mark commented how disconcerting the cracks were. I could not disagree.
ForeFlight screen shot for Alton Bay. |
In ForeFlight, runways are always described in terms of surface condition and type such as “poor asphalt", "good grass", or in the case of Alton Bay, "excellent water". For anyone who ever wondered what excellent water looks like, see the above photograph for an example.
Stopping to Smell the Flowers
We departed the ice in search of food. The only breakfast option that I know of in Alton Bay is the Bayside Diner. Because it is so small, the staff turn things around quickly to cycle people through. Our experience was no exception. For the wait staff, each shift must be a sprint.
Huh. Must be a seasonal sign. |
Fortunately, our wait for seating at Bayside was short. Randal, Scott, Ed, and Gilead claimed a booth while Mark, Joe, and I sat across the narrow aisle from them at the counter. The stools were so close together that I kept bumping Joe as we ate.
Next to Mark was another New York pilot from the Fulton County Airport near Albany. His flight required only half the time that ours did. When I asked about the 195 Factory, he told us that the previous owner had passed away, taking with him a vast lifetime of specialized knowledge. Sadly, it sounded like the end of an era for the 195 Factory that so impressed me just a few years ago.
Breakfast was fast and delicious. I had the meat lover's omelet with home fries and it was truly “egg-celent”. Though it was both second breakfast and lunch for me, first breakfast was five hours earlier and I was famished. Once we were fed and our bills in order, we surrendered our seats to those waiting.
I Love a Parade
Back at the airport, I did what I always do at fly-ins. I went airplane spotting. As seen here, even temporary airports warrant signage.
"It needs more lens flare!" |
The entire morning was a parade of general aviation airplanes swooping low (some lower than others) over the parking area before touching down on the ice. Taildraggers and trikes, low and high wings, two seats to six seats, they all came with the same aspiration of sampling the ice of Alton Bay.
Though backlit by the sun, there was no mistaking the silhouette of a Piper Cub variant.
From shore, it was easy to spot the WFC's Eight Five X-Ray and Ed’s Four Four Papa.
That blue and white one looked familiar. I am certain that I saw it on most of my past visits to Alton Bay.
A two seat Cessna 140 provided some vintage credibility to the gathering. These airplanes were manufactured by Cessna between 1946 and 1951.
Also introduced in 1946, the Globe Swift was a nimble, all-metal, two seat sport plane with a sleek, Art Deco aesthetic. While I have always been fond of the vintage high wing Cessna taildraggers, the contemporary Swift is far more exciting.
I have more direct experience with the two seat Cessna 150/152 with a combined 135 hours logged in them. While not as appealing to me as their direct tailwheel ancestor the 140, I will always have a soft spot for these airplanes. Cozy (i.e., small and cramped inside) and unhurried (i.e., underpowered), I fondly remember reaching a point in my training when the 150 became such a extension of my own body that climbing aboard was like wrapping myself in a second skin with wings.
Volunteer Air Traffic Control
Because of its unique geometry, the Alton Bay Ice Runway requires careful coordination on the ground to avoid conflicts. Pilots approaching the runway for take off cannot see aircraft on final approach behind and above them. (Like our friend that morning.) Ground traffic flows from the parallel taxiway southbound to parking and from the parking area northbound to the runway actually cross each other. All day long, Alton Bay volunteers were focused on the choke point where these three traffic patterns intersected.
Airport manager Jason Leavitt held a departing Cherokee in the parking area while other aircraft were inbound on final approach.
Landing traffic (like the Cessna 170 above) generally have right of way while outgoing traffic taxiing for departure and newly arrived traffic taxiing to parking are held in position. When the line for departures got too long, volunteers occasionally closed the airport to landing via radio to release waiting aircraft and relieve congestion on the ground.
With a pause in landing traffic, the white and yellow Cherokee was prompted to taxi to the runway for take off while new arrivals on the taxiway were held in place.
With the Cherokee finally able to depart, new arrivals accumulated on the taxiway were finally cleared into the parking area. The coordination performed by Alton Bay's volunteers really was excellent, particularly given the high traffic volume. The system may have broken down with the airplane that took off while I was on short final, but it worked reliably most of the day.
Water Hazards
Open water around the docks is somewhat disconcerting, but results from bubblers working to protect dock supports.
Airplane Spotting
I always liked the sporty look of the Socata Trinidad.
A local outfit called Epic Seaplane Adventures was flying rides for hire in this superfluously ski-equipped Cessna taildragger.
The Globe Swift taxied for departure while flashing us its distinctively toothy grin.
“Nurple?” Oh, because of the purple. Got it. Funny.
Insert macho posturing joke about airframe parachutes here.
More vintage cred: a V-tailed Beechcraft Bonanza! This was probably the largest aircraft we saw on the ice that day.
If a Searey lands at Alton Bay and Jamie is not present to see it, is it really there?
An interesting homespun solution to maintaining a warm engine on the ice: someone’s jacket standing in for cowl plugs. Pilots are clearly an innovative bunch. It was cold on the ice and I hoped that no one was walking around without a jacket because theirs was crammed into the snout of a Champ derivative. In the background, Joe and his parents were checking out Warrior 481.
I always thought that Maules had an attitude, but I think it has more to do with the name than the actual personality of the airplane.
Each year, rotary wing aircraft get their own special parking area.
Gilead's Turn
Having arrived as a passenger in an airplane that he was perfectly capable of flying, Gilead took a turn in Eight Five X-Ray to log his second landing on the ice runway.
With Gilead on short final, I noted that whoever cleaned Eight Five X-Ray’s belly did a heck of a job! (Mine needs some work, but it is too cold for that job right now.)
Photo by Ed. |
It was another excellent landing on the ice for Eight Five X-Ray that day.
Rush Hour
After two hours on the ice, we saddled up for the return flight. Strong headwinds -- forecast to be stronger than the tailwinds we enjoyed that morning -- would stretch the flight home to over three hours.
Across the parking apron from us, Ed and Randal waited patiently for random bystanders to clear the way before cranking the engine. Prop blasting random bystanders on the ice is probably frowned on.
Several pilots had the same idea at the same time. We waited in a line of four aircraft to depart as Paul held us in the parking area while new arrivals streamed overhead.
When we finally advanced to the front of the line, Jason had us give way to a group of newly arrived aircraft accumulated on the taxiway.
Eventually, the ground handlers waved us on toward the runway and, unlike our compatriot from earlier that morning, immediately throttled up for take off upon reaching the threshold.
Feeling Salty About This One
Rattlesnake Island, Lake Winnipesaukee. |
We flew northbound over Lake Winnipesaukee and stopped in Laconia for fuel along with the other participants in our flying caravan from Sodus. To my surprise, the apron near the Sky Bright's fuel farm was covered with salt! While perfectly normal for roads in winter, airports do not use salt because it poses too great a corrosion risk to light aircraft. Fortunately, the ramp was dry so Warrior 481 was not spritzed with saline while taxiing through puddles. Still...not cool.
This reminded me of the time we discovered that someone salted the runway at the South Haven Area Regional airport circa 2005. An observation of salt stains on my hangar floor ultimately led to the fire department hosing off the entire 4,800 foot long runway. Oh, what a circus that was.
Feeling Low
I chose an 8,500 foot cruise altitude to give Mark and Joe the most comfortable ride home. Unfortunately, this also meant meager ground speeds topping out around 85 knots. Shortly after crossing back into New York, clouds forced us down to 4,500 feet over the southern foothills of the Adirondacks. I clicked off HAL, preferring to hand fly in the bumps hurled at us by the terrain. I diverted southwest toward Great Sacandaga Lake and lower terrain in search of a smoother ride.
Low over the terrain, we could not raise the local sector for Boston Center. Radio reception improved closer to Rome and we made radio contact with Center just in time for them to hand us off to Syracuse. Syracuse advised of lake effect snow creating a wall between us and Sodus. Ed diverted south of the weather and made it through VFR. Gilead and I, both trailing Ed, ran into dramatically lowering visibility and requested pop-up IFR clearances. These were immediately granted. Syracuse Approach was extremely helpful in assisting us as we picked our way through the weather. Though the visibility plummeted due to snow, we were not in clouds and there was no discernable icing risk.
Within a a few minutes of going IFR, we emerged into clear air on the other side of the lake effect snow band and made for Sodus where I flew a practice RNAV-28 instrument approach with the autopilot. In total, I logged about 0.1 hours in actual instrument meteorological conditions (IMC).
A Deflating Experience
On short final, I clicked off the autopilot and brought Warrior 481 into ground effect, pulling the yoke back until she settled softly to the runway. The moment we started rolling, I could tell that something was wrong. The Warrior wanted to pull toward the left side of the runway, a pull that became increasingly insistent as we rolled out. I countered with aggressive right rudder and barely succeeded in keeping the plane on the runway. I brought the Warrior to a stop and pulled the mixture to ide cutoff to silence the engine.
Mark and Joe looked at me in confusion. "Flat tire," I explained. Then added, "I think." I have never experienced a flat tire in any airplane before, but I was pretty sure that we had one now.
Sure enough, the left main was flat. Fortunately, airport manager Mike B and Ray were both still on site. We were able to refill the tire with air and it held long enough for me, Mark, Joe, Dan VH, Gilead, Scott, and Mike B to push the Warrior from the runway all the way back to my hangar.
I would be remiss if I did not mention the critical dumb luck factor in play during this incident. A flat tire at home was an inconvenience. At Laconia, it would have been a major headache. At Alton Bay, it would have been a crisis. I am incredibly fortunate that this happened at home.
I departed the airport very curious about the cause of the flat, but had already ruled some options out:
- Blowout. Obviously, the tire did not blowout because it held air when we inflated it.
- Spinning the tube in an underinflated tire and shearing off the valve stem. Nope.
- Wet brakes from ground operations freezing at altitude and locking the wheel so that landing wears a hole right through the immobilized tire. Nope. The Warrior was rolling when we touched down and we did not taxi through any liquid water at Alton Bay or Laconia.
- Compacted snow or ice in the wheel pants immobilizing the wheel such that a hole is worn through the tire on landing. Nope. We operated off of uncontaminated surfaces all day and the wheel pants were clean inside.
- FOD (foreign object debris). Picking up a screw or other sharp object from the runway. Possibly...
In the end, Ray discovered a small hole in the tube without any evidence of what caused it.
This was not how I envisioned ending the day's flying, but this clearly falls into the "expect the unexpected" category. Just as I value the camaraderie on our flying adventure that morning, I value all the folks who came together to help get my stricken airplane off the runway.
Wrapping Up
I am pleased to have organized a successful first fly-out for the Williamson Flying Club in 2025. This was the first time our Activities Committee formally organized a trip to Alton Bay. I logged 5.8 hours of time with a sliver (0.1 hours) of IMC time. It was my fifth landing at Alton Bay, my first uncomfortable moment flying into Alton Bay, my first IMC time of the year (even though barely), and my first ever flat tire. I was glad to share the Alton Bay experience with Mark and Joe. All in all, a good flying adventure to kick off 2025.
Still, I could have done without the flat tire.
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