Living, Breathing, and Sometimes Silly History
Secreted among rolling hills flanking New York's Hudson River, just beyond the gleaming steel skyscrapers of Manhattan's twenty-first century metropolis, lies a tiny valley inexorably frozen in time. It is a place where century-old aircraft still prowl the sky, where corny melodrama ends in gloriously predictable triumph, and the dreaded Black Baron of Rhinebeck terrorizes eligible bachelorettes on weekends. This is the home of
Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, a living history aviation museum that harkens back over 100 years to the dawn of aviation. For those who love seeing old airplanes in the air, whether flying behind ancient rotary engines or held aloft by fragile looking wood framed wings with muslin skins, Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome is truly magical.
 |
| A 1918 Fokker D.VIII WWI era fighter launches from Old Rhinebeck's grass runway. |
I wrote previously about how this unusual brainchild of creator Cole Palen came to be (see
Jurassic Airpark from 2019). From May to October of each year, Old Rhinebeck puts up an airshow every Saturday and Sunday. In 2019, we witnessed the "History of Aviation" show. We vowed to return on a Sunday to witness the "World War I Dogfight Spectacular" airshow featuring simulated aerial duels between Sopwiths and Fokkers. We canceled earlier in 2022 because of poor weather, but October 9 was a perfect day to visit that bubble in time at the feet of the Catskill Mountains.
Back To the Borscht Belt
| Date | Aircraft | Route of Flight | Time (hrs) | Total (hrs) |
| 09 Oct 2022 | N21481 | SDC (Sodus, NY) - 20N (Kingston, NY) - SDC | 3.4 | 2543.4 |
 |
| Scott in One Delta Tango and me in Warrior 481 preparing to depart KSDC. Photo by Alicia. |
Just over a week after Tom and I flew above the Catskills en route to
Goodspeed, their distinctive peaks reappeared under Warrior 481's wings on the way to Old Rhinebeck. This time, my airplane was one of five flying along the same line over New York terrain.
Aboard Warrior 481 were Mark, a friend who last flew with me from
Hilton Head Island, SC to Tuskegee, AL, and Alan, a WFC member and Champ pilot in search of a faster means to reach Old Rhinebeck. Though Alan and I have known each other for a while, it was our first time flying together.
The Catskills must have recently embarrassed themselves. They were blushing.
MVP of the Day
Everyone landed on runway 15 at the Kingtson-Ulster Airport (20N), but a variable wind swirling from the eastern slopes of the Catskills had its way with all the airplanes. Despite the squirrelly winds, I managed to squeak Warrior 481 onto the runway smoothly enough to earn a compliment from Alan.
 |
| Warrior 481 landing at Kingston-Ulster in the midst of a rock and/or roll. Photo by Gilead. |
 |
| Warrior 481, Tom's Cherokee Two Six Romeo, and WFC Cherokee One Delta Tango at Kingston-Ulster. |
A logistical challenge of visiting Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome is that the on site runway is relatively short, lumpy turf surrounded by tall trees. It is not a great candidate for launching in Warrior 481, especially with passengers. Instead, we planned to land at nearby Kingston-Ulster airport and use Uber or Lyft to reach Old Rhinebeck. We did this successfully in 2019, but poor cell signal in the area made digital ride hailing more challenging than it should have been and there was no guarantee that such an approach would work in 2022.
 |
| Gilead, me, Scott, Jim, Alicia, Dan, Tom, Simon, Alan, Simon's friends, Joe, Bobby, Mark, and Pam. |
Enter WFC member Joe (fourth from right, above). Joe and his family happen to live in the area (there are WFC members everywhere!) and had access to a Sprinter van big enough for the whole group. When I organized this excursion for the club, Joe reached out and offered his services. I tried to pay his Old Rhinenbeck entrance fee and/or lunch to show my appreciation, but Joe would not hear of it and managed to purchase both before I could intervene.
 |
| Aboard Joe's van. Photo by Dan. |
When five airplanes full of people arrived at Kingston-Ulster Airport, Joe and his family were waiting there to shuttle us to Old Rhinebeck. Joe definitely earned his MVP status for the day. Thanks for everything, Joe!
Static
Old Rhinebeck founder Cole Palen believed that an airplane was only an airplane if it could fly. He was not fond of aircraft gathering dust on static display. However, some aircraft were deemed too fragile or too rare to risk flying and they have earned a home within the cushy confines of the museum.
Until recently, this original 1909 Bleriot XI was active on the flight line, but it was due for repair work and recused to the museum (temporarily, I hope). Per Old Rhinebeck literature, this early French-built Bleriot is the oldest aircraft still flying in the United States. The Bleriot XI is best known as the aircraft type that made the first crossing of the English Channel by air.
This 1909 Bleriot is (barely) powered by a 35 horsepower three cylinder Anzani radial engine.
Standing proudly between the 1909 Bleriot and an effigy of Harriet Quimby is another Bleriot XI built as a "cross country" model with a bigger engine (70 horsepower Gnome rotary) and larger fuel tank. It is an American-built original from 1911, manufactured on Long Island by the American Aeroplane & Supply House of Hempstead, New York. This Bleriot was stored in a barn near Boston from 1915 to 1963 before it was acquired by Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, restored, and flown. It no longer flies due to damage to its rare Gnome rotary engine.
A beautiful example of a French-designed 1917 Clerget rotary engine built in London by Gwynnes Ltd. These 130 horsepower engines were used to power Sopwith Camels among other aircraft of the era.
Prior to seeing this engine, I mistakenly believed that all rotary engines featured a single pushrod per cylinder, but that is clearly not the case here.
An original 1917 Morane-Saulnier A.I French WWI fighter powered by a Gnome 160 horsepower rotary engine. Incidentally, Raymond Saulnier was a principal designer of the Bleriot XI. Aviation has always been a bit of a small world.
The Fokker D.VII was the scourge of the sky in WWI. It was so deadly that Germany was required to surrender all of them under the terms of the Armistice. Old Rhinebeck's D.VII is a reproduction that flies behind an original vintage Mercedes D.III liquid cooled engine. It was the last aircraft Cole Palen built before his passing in 1993. We last saw it on the flight line 2019, but the Mercedes powerplant is in need of an overhaul.
 |
| An original 1929 Pitcairn Mailwing PA-6 seen through the wires of a 1929 American Eagle A-129 biplane. |
 |
| Tail feathers of the 1929 American Eagle A-129. |
Outside the formal museum, a set of three Quonset huts contain additional aircraft in a less controlled environment.
 |
| 1931 Bird Model CK. |
My first introduction to the Spartan Aircraft Company was seeing a Spartan Executive, a sleek, gleaming, Art Deco masterpiece introduced in 1936 for executive travel. Its predecessor was this 1929 Spartan C-3 biplane.
This reproduction of the famous Sopwith F.1 Camel featured an original 160 horsepower Gnome rotary engine. It was flown at Old Rhinebeck from 1992 - 2009. Though Snoopy made it look easy, the airplane was notoriously challenging to fly and responsible for the demise of many student pilots. However, in the hands of a master, it was a true air superiority fighter of its era.
"You'll Shoot Your Eye Out, Kid!"
This aircraft was restored to the configuration of a 1914 Morane Saulnier N model. Constructed from an original Morane Saulnier A.I fuselage fitted with reproduction N model wings, an original Le Rhone rotary engine completes the aircraft.
This was the first fighter aircraft to carry a forward firing machine gun. Absent a synchronization gear (a later invention of Anthony Fokker's that prevented pilots from shooting off their own propellers), the backside of the N's propeller was fitted with steel plates of triangular cross section intended to deflect bullets fired at the propeller. It was an approach that may have worked, but obviously demanded a better way.
This aircraft is a reproduction Nieuport 2N equipped with what I like to call a "reverse Thagomizer" that was apparently added to prevent tipping the aircraft onto its nose. Something like that might have come in handy later in the day.
U-Fly
Scott tried his hand at flying this Old Rhinebeck biplane of unknown manufacture. His low level maneuvering skills were really quite impressive.
The Flight Line
Cole Palen did not envision Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome as a static, dusty museum. As such, the actual heart of the place is its flight line of active aircraft staged alongside the grass runway.
Across the runway, an original 1943 Boeing Stearman N2S-5 waited its turn to fly.
"Curse You, Red Baron!"
 |
| Reproduction Fokker Dr.I. Photo by Alicia. |
Renowned for exceptional climb rate and maneuverability, the Fokker Dr.I was the iconic steed of Germany's "Red Baron". Sadly, no original Dr.I fighters survived to the modern era. This version is a reproduction of the 1917 aircraft fitted with a modern 220 horsepower radial engine instead of the Oberusel rotary that would have powered the original.
The more modern engine helps improve the Black Baron of Rhinebeck's dispatch reliability.
 |
| Reproduction 1917 Albatros D.Va and Fokker Dr.I biding their time for the airshow. |
Whereas the Boeing Stearman was the predominant military primary trainer of WWII for the United States, the De Haviland DH.82 Tiger Moth filled this role for the RAF. Old Rhinebeck's original 1934 Tiger Moth features an original 120 horsepower Gipsy Major engine.
No AHHHH-OOOOGA horn. Very disappointing.
 |
| Original 1942 Fleet Finch 16-B. |
 |
| Dual cockpits of the 1941 Fleet Finch. |
Snoopy and Woodstock took their proper places near this original 1930 Fleet Model 1. This beautiful design was the first of many successful Fleet biplanes produced for civilian use.
The Hometown Hero
Northwest of Rhinebeck, NY is Hammondsport, the home of aviation pioneer Glenn Curtiss. Curtiss produced the JN-4 biplane trainer affectionately known as the "Jenny". Over 6,800 Jenny biplanes were produced after 1915. They trained American WWI pilots to fly and, post-war, became popular barnstorming airplanes because they were inexpensive and abundant. Charles Lindbergh first soloed in a Jenny after purchasing one in Americus, GA. (That airplane is currently on display at the
Cradle of Aviation Museum.)
Old Rhinebeck's original 1917 Jenny flies behind a Hispano-Suiza "Hisso" 180 horsepower engine, a more powerful and reliable powerplant than the 90 horsepower stock Curtiss OX-5. It is believed to be one of only three Hisso-powered Jenny aircraft still flying worldwide.
The Ironic Dove
Added to the Old Rhinebeck menagerie in the spring of 2022, this reproduction of a 1912 Etrich Model F Taube is a rare flying example. (There are some reports that the replica built by the
Owls Head Transportation Museum may have also flown.) Considering that the name of the aircraft is German for "Dove", it is interesting that the first mass-produced military airplane in Germany was named for an icon of peace. The Taube was also the first aircraft type known to drop a bomb.
Like the Hanriot that we saw fly in 2019, the Taube uses wing warping to control roll. Fortunately, European aviation pioneers were largely beyond the litigious reach of the Wright Brothers, who doggedly defended their patents on aircraft control. (Just ask Glenn Curtiss.) Interestingly, the elevator also functions by warping rather than being a hinged surface like the rudder.
The Flying Razor
A late WWI development, the Fokker D.VIII was a fast, nimble monoplane. Although this example is a reproduction, it flies behind a period-appropriate (if not nation-appropriate) 160 horsepower Gnome rotary engine.
Modern Versions of Allied Classics
The Sopwith Pup (predecessor to the Camel) rose to fame in 1917 when it became the first aircraft to land aboard a moving ship. This example is a reproduction.
The SPAD VII was a classic French fighter of WWI. This reproduction is powered by a modern Lycoming O-320-E2D, a minor variant on Warrior 481's powerplant intended for Cessna 172s.
Taking To the Air!
Prior to the airshow, flight line activity visibly increased.
 |
| Staging the Curtiss Jenny for flight. |
The Model T fuel truck made visits to various aircraft in preparation for flight.
 |
| The Tiger Moth taxies out for departure. |
 |
| Reproduction 1931 Great Lakes biplane. |
 |
| Tiger Moth breaking ground. |
 |
| Great Lakes airborne! |
Flight of the Dove
Pioneer era aircraft like the Taube, Curtiss Pusher, and Bleriot XI are usually restricted to flight under relatively calm conditions. It was a treat to see the Taube taxi for departure after a brief demonstration of how its flight controls worked.
Because of their rarity and fragility, Old Rhinebeck limits their pioneer era aircraft to altitudes below treetop level. It was still thrilling to see such a contraption capably managing sustained flight.
Knights of the Sky
 |
| Launch of the Fokker D.VIII. |
 |
| Fokker D.VIII in flight. |
 |
| The SPAD VII departs Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome. |
Flight of the Jenny
It is always a delight to see a vintage 1917 Curtiss Jenny take to the sky.
When head on, the complexity of the bracing wires is very apparent.
With the engine at idle and background noise at a minimum, they say you can hear the wind whistling through the wires. I completely believe that to be the case, even though I didn't hear anything in the moment.
 |
| The tower at show center. |
Flippin' Out
I did not expect to see a Flying Farmer routine in the middle of the "WWI dogfight spectacular", but when this 1941 Piper J-3 was wheeled-out to give volunteer "Flip" (above, in coveralls) a ride, I knew it was just a matter of time before the Cub "pilot" was ousted (along with a control stick) and newbie bumpkin "Flip" would heave the vintage Piper into the sky in the most reckless manner possible.
"Flip" put on quite a show.
Somehow, "Flip" figured out how to land that Cub just as nice as you could ask. He must have been a quick learner.
The Biplane Brigade
 |
| 1930 Fleet Model 1 goes airborne. |
 |
| 1934 De Havilland Tiger Moth. |
 |
| The New Standard D-25, Stearman, Fleet Finch, and Great Lakes biplanes. |
 |
| Boeing Stearman and New Standard D-25. |
 |
| Fleet Model 1, Stearman, Tiger Moth, Great Lakes, New Standard D-25. |
Oh, the Melodrama!
Old airplanes, exploding pumpkins, vintage cars, bombed-out lingerie factories, and melodrama. There are many elements to an Old Rhinebeck air show! But there is no need to spoil the goings-on here.
 |
| Our heroine and hero! |
 |
| I hope that the Black Baron does not interrupt the wedding! (Of course he did.) |
 |
| Yep, the Black Baron of Rhinebeck and his henchman at their headquarters. |
 |
| The comic stylings of Pierre Loop De Loop, the greatest pilot in all of France! |
 |
| Why does the Black Baron of Rhinebeck appear to be thirteen years old? |
Full Stop
It was all great fun. Ancient aircraft swooping through the air dropping actual pumpkins that erupted into clouds of black smoke upon striking the ground, vintage automobiles giving chase to the bad guys, and over the top acting from heroes and villains alike. Surely, the Black Baron would have been twirling his mustache had he been old enough to grow one. Across the field, the Albatros and Fokker Dr.I idled in preparation for the climactic dogfight.
But then Alan and I noticed something worrisome. As the biplanes were recovered, the Stearman appeared to land hotter than normal. A quick look at the flags along the flight line revealed why: the wind had changed direction and the aircraft were landing downwind.
Also landing fast and long, the Fleet Model 1 appeared to brake too aggressively, went over onto its nose, and landed on its back. Immediately, a red flag was waved from the control tower and the remaining airborne biplanes began orbiting the field until the runway could be cleared.
Fortunately, the pilot was unharmed.
With remarkable speed and gentle caution, the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome crew carefully settled the stricken biplane back onto its wheels. I was impressed by the organized speed and care of the entire operation.
Within minutes, the airplane was righted and rolled off the runway. Sadly, the vertical stabilizer was visibly mangled and the fact that the engine was running when it went up on its nose surely means a teardown for its radial engine.
The airshow announcer summed it up best. "This is what happens when you fly old airplanes, folks." I imagine that air show go / no-go decisions are quite a tug of war between prudent weather decision making and a desire that the "show must go on". In this case, conditions were obviously deteriorating.
Once the runway was cleared, the tower waved a black and white checkered flag and landings resumed. Flags along the flight line flipped this was and that as the conditions became unpredictable. One of the returning biplane pilots did not like the looks of his approach and aborted.
The dogfight pilots conferred and decided not to continue the show in the face of worsening weather. While we were all disappointed not to see the dogfighting portion of the "WWI Dogfight Spectacular", it was the right choice.
Hearing this, my first thought was that I would need to launch in that variable wind with a full airplane.
Consolation Prize
In lieu of dogfighting WWI aircraft, Old Rhinbeck cranked up their M1917 light tank, an American version of the French Renault FT. I actually learned to drive in a Renault Alliance, which I have always viewed as flimsy excuse for a car. Fortunately, the tank looked significantly more robust.
As the rare tank trundled past, I experienced a bout of sympathetic claustrophobia.
 |
One last look at the Fokker D.VIII on the way out of Old Rhinebeck.
|
Escaping the Black Baron
Back at Kingston-Ulster Airport, we thanked Joe again for his help and boarded Warrior 481 for the flight home. We launched from runway 33, a downdraft from the nearby mountains imparting an anemic climb rate until we successfully navigated away from the sinking air.
Concerned about becoming pinched between the Catskills and the ceiling, Tom and I chose to follow the Hudson River Valley to the north, only turning toward Sodus once clear of the mountains. Fortunately, I was only challenged by the air. It was not as if I had the Black Baron of Rhinebeck on my six hurling pumpkins at us.
Sunlight filtered through the overcast manifested physically in the haze, brilliantly highlighting areas of the otherwise gloomy terrain.
Our views on the way home were glorious.
Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome is truly a magical place and everyone enjoyed the visit. Even though the airshow ended unexpectedly, we were impressed by the way the incident was handled. As Alicia said, missing out on the WWI dogfight just means that we have an excuse to go back.
