Orchestra Italiano | Part 9, Home of the Luthiers

 April 4 - 6: Founded by Hercules - Cremona, Italy

Unlike our other Italian destinations to date, I was completely unfamiliar with the city of Cremona prior to our arrival. But over the centuries, Cremona has been a center of the universe for luthiers; craftspeople who make stringed instruments, perhaps the most famous of whom was Antonio Stradivari (1644-1737). The word luthier is an explicit linkage to the progenitor of most stringed instruments, the lute, though obviously violins and their progressively larger kin possess a unique shape and a curved bridge that facilitates bowing in a way that a lute or guitar does not. As the heart of Italian stringed instrument manufacturing, Cremona was a natural destination for the Hochstein Youth Symphony Orchestra.

Beyond its musical relevance as a stop on the HYSO tour, I confess that Cremona was my favorite of the cities we visited. It is very true that I stood in awe at the scope of the Coliseum, that I was astounded by the natural musculature of David's marble figure, and that I goggled at the apparent improbability of Pisa's notorious leaning architectural masterpiece. But moreso than any other place we visited, Cremona felt real. It is a beautiful ancient city and, unlike Rome, Florence, and Pisa, it lacks the throngs of tourists that congest the streets in those other places. It was our first opportunity to experience a place without a multitude of visitors altering the experience by their very presence. I am confident that if I took a poll among my travelling companions, Cremona would rank highly for them as well.

Hotel Impero

Logistical challenges led to our tour group being split between two hotels. Kristy, The Bear, and I stayed at the Hotel Impero that was conveniently set a couple of blocks southeast from the Piazza Duomo Cremona (Cathedral Square).

From our room at the Hotel Impero, we had a great view of the Pizza della Pace (Peace Square), despite some ongoing construction. Our rooms were uncomfortably warm and neither Mark nor I could trick the thermostats in our rooms into trickling even a little cool air in through the vents. Though our windows opened, we were hesitant to leave them open unattended for fear that the many pigeons strutting along our window ledge might invite themselves inside.

The Bear clearly enjoyed her view from the room she shared with Izzy.

Hotel Impero even offered some very on point "do not disturb" signs.

Piazza Duomo Cremona / Piazza dei Comune

Although the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta in Cremona is not as grand as St Peter's or the cathedral in Florence, it had an elegant old world charm about it that I found very appealing. It was an incredibly photogenic structure that defined one entire side of the square.

This side entrance to the cathedral is a bit less grand than the front facade.

At first glance, The Bear and I both mistook the statue of Mary for Jar Jar Binks. With no actual heresy intended, we both realized after a closer look that the statue did not depict the most reviled character from George Lucas' prequal trilogy.

On Saturdays, the square and many of the surrounding streets are transformed into an extensive farmers market. It was an astounding metamorphosis that seemed to occur overnight. (Because it literally did occur overnight.)

Kristy at one of the side entrances to the cathedral.

The Torrazzo

As iconic as Cremona's cathedral may be, its bell tower -- known as the Torrazzo -- essentially symbolizes the city. Per our tour guide, travelers confirm visiting Cremona with their friends by affirming that they've seen the Torrazzo.

Completed in 1309, the Torrazzo is the third tallest brickwork tower in the world as well as the world's oldest brick structure taller than 100 m.

The square is clearly an important gathering place. Here, citizens of Cremona enjoy outdoor dining in the shadow of the Torrazzo.

The Torrazzo is outfitted with a massive astronomical clock, though it is less of a technological wonder than its counterpart in Prague.

Battistero di Cremona

Much like Florence and Pisa, the cathedral square in Cremona includes the same triad of cathedral, bell tower, and baptistry.

Construction of Cremona's octagonal Romanesque baptistery began in 1167. Marble cladding was added to two faces of the structure between 1553 and 1558. I was unable to ascertain why the remaining six sides were left as naked red brick, though modern cynicism suggests the phrase "budget cuts".

Back side of the baptistery.

Palazzo del Comune

Directly across the square from the cathedral is Cremona's medieval city hall (Palazzo del Comune) building that dates to 1206, was enlarged in 1245, and renovated in 1496.

Outdoor dining was available under the city hall portico, seen here as set up in the morning before being filled by patrons.

It is difficult to discern without anything present for reference, but only a hobbit could have managed this door unstooped. It would have been a perfect place for a troll photo, but alas, The Bear was off having her own adventures without us.

I was amused by this fountain and promptly sent its image to The Bear.

Photo by Izzy.

Remember that tendency of The Bear to imitate art? It's a good thing that I sent a picture of the fountain to her, otherwise the world may have missed out on this striking example of life imitating art.

Even from within the courtyard of city hall, it is impossible to escape the Torrazzo!

A tourism office in the Comune di Cremona advertised that some American yokels from Rochester, New York would be performing at Cremona's Teatro Amilcare Ponchielli on Friday, April 5. Some of the people in that poster looked vaguely familiar.

Loggia Dei Militi

Built in 1292, the last significant structure on the Piazza Duomo is the Loggia dei Militi (Soldiers' Loggia) where captains from the local militia would meet.

Within the portico is an 18th century sculpture of Cremona's coat of arms supported by two statues of Hercules (Ercole), the demigod founder of Cremona according to local legend.

Postcards from Cremona

We spent one full day and two nights in Cremona, providing significant opportunity to explore the city. What follows are random snapshots -- and more Italian doorways -- from the streets of Cremona.

Just off the Piazza Duomo, we dined at the Alberto Duomo Ristorante on the evening of April 5. One thing that I did not anticipate about our Italian dining experience was the prominence of prosciutto and other thin sliced cured meats as a part of most dinners. I most certainly had my fill of cured meats for 2024 as we traveled throughout Italy.

Aw...a little taste of home on this outdoor cafe table on the Piazza della Pace.

Walking on these rounded cobblestones can really do a number on your ankles! Because our motor coaches could not get anywhere near Hotel Impero in the central part of the city (even Pino isn't that good), we noisily dragged our wheeled suitcases over quite an expanse of cobblestone roads like this one to reach our hotel.

So many intriguing portals!

Who's there??

This tower on the edge of the Piazza della Pace (outside of our hotel) is attached to the backside of the city hall building.

No tower in Cremona out-towers the Torrazzo!

Yum! Kristy, Dena, Mark, and I enjoyed some morning treats in one of the small bakeries located off the Piazza Duomo.

Down one alley, we encountered this wild art installation. It appeared that these paper mache figures may have been lit from within, but we neglected to go in search of them after dark.

It is difficult to see a gated courtyard such as this one and not wonder what else lies within.

In 1967, a construction project unearthed this portion of an ancient Roman road still passing through town. Though several feet below street level, it is in remarkably excellent condition and can be viewed through a glass panel set in the sidewalk.

Museo del Violino

Given Cremona's musical pedigree, it is not surprising that a museum stands in tribute to violins and related instruments.

I liked this statue called The Soul of Music that celebrates the contemplative power of music. It uses music notation to depict a figure seated with their knees drawn up close to their chest.

In addition to a tour, we were treated to a concert in the museum's Auditorium Giovanni Arvedi. Arranged in the round, it seemed like the most acoustically perfect space I had ever entered. There, Aurelia Macovei performed several solo works on a 1727 Stradivari violin named Vesuvio for its intense burgundy varnish. Macovei held nothing back and played with speed and skill that would have stunned even the best thrash metal guitar virtuosos. Unsurprisingly, the set she played was carefully curated to show off the incredible versatility and capability of the instrument. When she completed her performance, a museum staffer appeared to reclaim the precious instrument, delicately placing it within a specialized -- and very robust looking -- case. It is not every day that one gets to listen to 1727!

Photo by Kristy.

This sculpture appeared to be something like the concept of a plan. From my expression, it is obvious that I was impressed.

Fittingly, a monument to Antonio Stradivari himself stands outside of the museum.

Cremona After Dark

Dramatic lighting on the cathedral means that the Piazza Duomo Cremona is even impressive at night!

At night, the Torrazzo is visible from blocks away.

Cremona was beautiful, less crowded and frenetic than the other cites we visited, and steeped in a tradition of musical craftsmanship. It was a perfect sojourn for the HYSO during the 2024 Italian tour and a delightful surprise. Positioned discreetly on our itinerary of otherwise famously well known places, Cremona was the charming unknown that captured my heart.